Sunday, August 1, 2010

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Friday, July 16, 2010

Beauty's Poisonous Fish Species Other Annihilate

Maroon beautiful fish populations but poisonous in the waters of the Caribbean spread, even to shift the local species. Aka prickly fish named lionfish lion fish is often stinging divers. Though these fish originated from the tropical Indian and Pacific oceans. They allegedly fled the Florida fish tank and spread to Cuba, to the Cayman Islands, the main purpose of the divers.

The existence of this lionfish worried enough marine ecology experts, since they quite destroy other native species. A lionsfh could spend 20 small fish within 30 minutes. "There is no way to stop this invasion," said Mark Hixon, marine ecologist at Oregon State University.

Invasion

Besides toxic, it also kills fish prey or enemies with long thorns around its body. Similar cases also occurred in Africa, the Nile perch fishing has destroyed more than 200 species of rare fish. According to the World Conservation Union, the case was entered in the 100 list of the world's worst invasive species.

Lion fish poisonous been held in the Bahamas, where they also prey on all the kids fish. Scientists believe that fish was first brought to malignant Atlantika in 1992 during Hurricane Andrew. These species are not aggressively attack humans, but once bitten it is very fatal poison. Throughout the 18-inch fish was moving rather slowly and in deep water. So who is the most potentially poison the divers.

Carp On The Fly


Insanity or the ultimate stalking experience ?

Year after year we strive to find something different to present carp with, different baits, rigs, hook sizes, floats, just about anything. Carp learn to associate certain sounds, objects (sight), and tastes with a threat. On some waters carp learn to be suspicious in certain areas of the lake but not in others. 2oz weights have a distinct sound when they hit the water, on some pressurized waters the plop of weights can spook Carp, although I suspect that this is limited. What normally appears happens is that the Carp turn round to look for the cause and if nothing moves they soon forget about it. Recasting, a moving shadow or the movement caused by the straightening of a float can definitely spook them at this stage. However, leaves, twigs, ducks, and who knows what continuously land in the water; all are perfectly normal and will not so raise more than an carp's eyebrow. How much more of a dramatic change in presentation could you ask for than to fly line? One this is for sure, carp have virtually never seen a fly line; let alone heard the gentle splash it makes as it lands on the water. All of this is to the fly fisherman's advantage, carp have virtually no knowledge of any associated treat.

A standard fly rod, around a 7 or 8 weight with either a double taper or weight forward floating line will produce good results. The floating line helps, it keeps the line away from the fish who will swim under it apparently not even realizing it's there. If they do notice it, they probably assume it's a piece of floating reed or something. A rod lighter that a 7 weight does not have enough back bone when it comes to playing Carp. Remember you are probably used to fishing a rod with around a two and half pound test curve and now you have dropped to a pound or less. It is quite surprising how light a leader you can get away with. The comparatively soft fly rod provides very high levels of buffering. Start with 9 foot leader with a 6lb tip. You can use a lighter tip, but your chances of losing a strong fish will increase.

You don't have to use flie's, a fly rod makes an excellent tool for casting various different types of bait. The traditional fly fisherman would shy away from ideas such as super-glue and dog biscuits. With a fly rod; you have the opportunity to cast one 20yds from the bank without controller to make a large splash as it lands. Another option is corn on a small hook, size eight for example will sink the corn with no problems. Floating baits will require the leader to be greased so that is floats, sinking baits need a sinking de-greased leader.

Conventional trout flies can be used; large whites can be mistaken for bread floating on the surface. Carp are often the curse of the American fly fishermen, who pick them up on a nymph whilst fishing for lake trout. This can also be used to our advantage. Patterns that work include; blood worm, pheasant tail nymphs, hares ears and olive nymphs, to mention a few. To fish these you will need a very slow retrieve with lots of pauses. A floating line and a sinking leader is best, provided it is not too deep. For deep water a sinking line can be used but this increases the risk of spooking the Carp. A small twitch is enough to get their attention and a small coating of diluted flavor before you cast, whilst not necessary, will help to get a strong take. One fly which is particularly effective and was designed for carp by Tom Conner is the Corn Fly. This consists of a small cube of yellow foam mounted on the hook in a similar fashion to a hair rig. The foam is dipped in flavor before casting and is allowed to sink to where the fish are.

Tactics are very similar to stalking, slow movements and a light foot fall are essential. Use what vegetation there is as cover and wear dark cloths that blend in. Location is definitely king in this game; you need to target individual or small groups of feeding fish. Random casting will not bring results. Polarized sun glassed are essential not only as visual aid but they add a safety factor when you have a hook in the air. Once the target carp has been spotted, there are three main tactics that can be used; which one to choose will depend on their behavior and your casting abilities. The first is to drop the fly "on the fishes head" and allow it to slowly sink. Don't worry about the fly touching the fish, it will feel it, and will probably turn and taste it, if it doesn't a slight twitch of the fly can often provoke a response. The second is to over cast the fish and slowly and gradually retrieve through to the point where the fish are feeding. This method is particularly effective when carp are end up feeding on the bottom, as casting direct to them will only result in the fly being "blown off-course" by their tail finning. The last method is for surface or near surface fish. Cast the fly about six to twelve inches ahead the fish. Moving the fly gently away from the approaching fish ,only an inch or two, will probably result is a definite take if only out of curiosity.

Small flies can often work better than large ones, size 12 is about right. Larger ones can spook fish. since a small hook is very sharp and has no bait in the way, it will penetrate deeply, filling the hook bend. This action combined with the damping effect of the soft rod reduces the strain on the hook and is therefor less likely to result in a bent or de-formed hook. Carp don't chase flies, nor do they take and run immediately. Once they have realized something is wrong, they move off with the hook still in their mouths, you will see the line start to move with them and now is your time to strike gently, after that they really do move. You will need to give line, forget using this method near snags. Letting the fish take all your slack line so that you can play the fish off the reel is essential. Line played in the hand can be very jerky and result in hook pulls. After that is down to you.

They will probably think you are insane, but you will be the one holding the fish.

Fishing Together

Fishing is an enjoyable hobby. Besides fishing can reduce frustration and stress. Fishing has always been a love hate source of recreation for me. Taking some time off from the pressures and responsibilities to do something just for myself is a rare opportunity and to go fishing can be both a diversion and unbelievably frustrating. Sometimes I even have to remind myself that I am having fun.

Though going alone can be rewarding, I feel that to fully enjoy the experience, a fisherman needs a partner, and fishing with a partner can add a degree of friendly competitiveness to the experience.

The contests in fishing are a lot like filling football statistics: who catches the first fish, the most fish, the biggest fish, the smallest fish, the most different kinds of fish, the real fish (Blue-gill don't count), and then the competition turns to who has the best rig, the best bait, the best knot, the best line weight, and on and on. I miss out on all of this if I don't have apartner.
The success of any trip depends on the preparation and it is no less so for fishing. My partner loves to tinker with boat motors and having the motor run-ready has always been his responsibility. Every trip we have ever made with the boat has always included the assurance that the motor is "running like a clock" and it never is.

I remember one trip that took three hours to get to the lake. The launch ramp was just a shallow soft incline into the lake. We had serious doubts about being able to pullthe boat back out without sinking the van to its axle. We launched our boat anyway and made it about a mile across the lake and began fishing.
The fish weren't interested and we decided to find a better location before dark. After shoving out into the cove we attempted to restartthe motor but the battery was dead.

No problem, we always carried an extra battery when night fishing, often borrowed from the church bus or some extra vehicle setting around, for just such emergencies. We had left the battery back in the van.
No problem, we can pull-start the motor. My partner, being a powerful man, broke the pull rope on the first tug. No problem, we'll just pull the top off and reattach the rope. We had left the toolbox back atthe boat ramp.

No problem, with the boat oars we can row the boat to a better fishing location. We searched the boat and could only find one oar and we had no idea where its mate was. No problem, it will be difficult moving an eighteen-foot heavy duty Bayliner with only one oar but we are committed and the night was still young. The oar, our last great hope, broke on the first stroke and the paddle end floated out of reach as we sit there dumb-founded.
No problem, on the trip up my partner had purchased three stadium seats and we could make use of these to propel the boat. It was now after sunset, totally dark, with no moon. The lake was unimproved, without lights or reference to where the dock was, and the lights onthe boat were worthless with our dead battery. No problem.

We are confident we can reach the dock in the dark, after all real men are never lost and always know where they are going. We set out, one on each side ofthe boat, stroking away with the chairs.
Within the first few seconds my partner lost his grip and his chair sank out of sight. No problem, we had a third chair and since this was no longer funny I admonished him: "Don't EVER do that again."

The chairs worked better than we imagined, by holding the back with one hand we could dip the seat into the water, and with each stroke, we made good time.

Being every bit as good a man as my partner, I became sorely vexed that he could dip three strokes to my ten and still keep the boat straight. I rowed until my arm hurt and I was out of breath, all the while my partner was having a leisurely time looking around and making an occasional stroke. It was more than I could stand.
Coming close to wimping out and wanting to retain some dignity, I mildly suggested we change sides so we could make better progress. This time I would be using my dominant arm. Mypartner stated that he was fine but if I really needed to, we could change sides. It is important among real men to not let other men get the upper hand or even appear to be equal.

Much relieved with changing sides I soon noticed that I was stroking two to three times for every ten strokes or so of my partner. Having so much fun watching my partner stressing out, I at first didn't realize there was a problem with the boat. The boat should not have been that out of balance.


After looking the boat over I made an important discovery, "'think we would make better progress if we took the motor out of the water?" It was fun watching the expression on my partner's face. How two grown men could be so dense was not something we wanted to discuss. We had rowed half way across the lake dragging the heavy prop and its fins in the water like an anchor.
By now we were close to where we had landed the boat. There were a number of camp trailers and motor homes belonging to more affluent fishermen, the kind who have nice equipment that really works, near the landing site. Through the glow of a couple of camp lights we were able to reach the shore at the launch site.

By now it was well after midnight and all was quiet. While standing in water up to my chest as I lined up the boat, my partner went after the van and boat trailer. Just as we figured, the boat was too heavy to pull out and we sank the van well into the mud. No problem.

We began building a more solid tire path with driftwood, rocks and unclaimed firewood. We jacked the van back out of the mud and congratulated ourselves on our impromptu engineering feat. We were now ready to overcome gravity, mud, and an overweight boat.

With great expectations of driving away victorious we both climbed into the van. My partner started the van up and we had just begun putting tension on the trailer when the van died. Perplexed as to what was the problem, we soon came to the conclusion that we were out of gas. At this we were quite surprised, we had filled the tank before the trip and because of its large capacity we were confident that we would make a complete round trip without refueling. No problem.
We had a full five-gallon gas can so all we had to do was empty it into the van's fuel tank and we would be on our way. As my partner was pouring in the fuel, the gas began to poor back out of the van's fuel inlet after about 1 gallon out of the can. We were not out of gas; the tank was still quite full.

We next checked the fuel pump and sure enough it was not pumping fuel. We decided that the fuel line might be clogged and while examining it we discovered a flaw in the engineering of the fuel system. The fuel line was attached to the front of the tank and, though the tank was near full, at the angle the van was at, the fuel line was sucking air and not fuel. No problem.

We could detach the fuel line from the gas tank and reroute it into the cab of the van and down into what was left in our five-gallon gas can. Then by priming the carburetor with fuel dispensed out of a soda-pop can we would be able to start the van and the fuel pump would then be able to draw fuel from the five gallon can and we then would be able to pullthe boat out of the water and up the hill to dry flat ground where we could shut off the van and while one of us put our finger over the van's tank outlet hole the other could reroute the fuel line back to where it belonged and after it was reattached we would be as good as new and ready to go home.

No problem and there is nothing like a good plan.

My partner never owned for long any personal vehicle that he couldn't defy its engineering parameters and make run. His achievements were often heralded with spectacular backfires through the carburetor. It was as if it were his own personal repudiation of overpriced garage mechanics with overrated skills.

Needless to say I wanted nothing to do with sitting next to an open gas can in a confined space with a violently backfiring carburetor. I magnanimously volunteered to stand outside and supervise our progress.

My partner fired up the engine and the fun began. With the engine roaring and the right rear tire burning rubber and an occasional backfire thrown in, the boat might as well been a hippo stuck in the mud. We needed more help to push our problem up and out of the lake. No problem.
By now, overcome with curiosity partly induced by the noise that woke the dead, we had accumulated a small crowd of onlookers who were more than willing to help us on our way. Our volunteers were a bedraggled bunch in various states of half dress, deprived of sleep and bleary eyed. They were quite enthused about shoving something and the van and boat answered their need.

Committed to helping us on our way we were soon out of the lake and up on flat ground. I quickly slid under the van and plugged the orifice leaking gas out of the gas tank. My partner quickly secured the gas line and in a few moments we were as good as new. There was just one casualty as my partner had become the proud new owner of a pocket knife purchased while on our trip, it had become forever lost to him in his endeavors with the fuel line.

Our enthusiastic volunteers had melted into the dark to their prospective campers and warm beds and we didn't even get a chance to thank them. I had noticed a couple of them walking away shaking their heads and felt badly about not expressing our gratitude.

It was now quite late in this backwater community and still a moonless night. Even though we were returning home sooner than expected, we both felt we had received our full measure of entertainment for our trip. About five miles into our return trip I noticed that the headlights were rather dim. I made a casual comment due to being concerned that we would inadvertently bring home more deer or beef than we had ever planed to capture in fish.

My partner stated that he had noticed that his alternator gauge was showing no output but he didn't seem to be overly concerned due in part, I'm sure, to not taking as important the expected task of reconnecting all the wires in the engine compartment after making repairs. After, all real men often fail to value the necessity of nuisance indicators that distract from their self-worth as master mechanics. In other words, not having a working alternator gauge is no big deal.

But this problem seemed to be quite real; the alternator was dead. In the tradition of the stalwart, we shut down the heater fan to conserve whatever electricity was remaining in the battery. Just because we were soaking wet and the night was cool was no excuse to be self-indulgent by siphoning off electricity just for creature comforts. To prolong the life of the battery we also shut off our lights. We easily compensated the problem of not being able to see where we were going by my rolling down my window and shining a flashlight ahead into the dark. This gave us the comfort of at least thinking we could see where we were going.

The windshield was long past due for a proper cleaning, a necessity that my partner rated with the same frequency as getting a haircut, if that often. So, to increase our margin of safety, I hung out the window to get a clearer view of where we were going. It was invigorating! The cold night air rushing to meet my face and permeating every inch of my wet body is a treat that truly has to be experienced to be fully enjoyed.

We had our situation under control and we were confident that the next town we came to would answer our needs. With the view of distant lights our battery finally discharged its last and we coasted to a stop. No problem, my partner quickly installed the spare battery that fate had left us fully charged and we were soon on our way.

The first small town had nothing to offer us. All night auto parts stores, service stations, or even the pillar of commerce, a twenty-four-hour Wal-Mart, had yet to grace this part of the world. We couldn't even find a bored cop to entertain with our exploits. Community after community rolled by with the silence of the night surrounding us. Before long the spare battery died and we coasted again to a stop.

We found ourselves perched beside the road, of all places, on a saddle, a bare ridge between two peaks. One of those places which are usually posted with the sign: "CAUTION HIGH WINDS MAY BE PRESENT." With no salvation before daylight expected, we climbed into the back of the van; though roomy, it was devoid of its rear seats, carpet or inside paneling that would have insulated us from the now cold night wind. An igloo would have been a welcome alternative. I curled up on the bare metal floor and passed out into blissful sleep.

Known only to those close to me, I have a talent that out shines everything else I can do. I snore. My wife is looked upon with great reverence because of this. When the women gather and compare their lot in life, she wins every contest with what a wife will have to endure to be with her mate. Of all the burdens and sacrifices that a married woman will present to her peers, my snoring puts her in a class all by herself. This talent was reaffirmed while I slept in the van. It drove my partner to the brink with ideas of how to get out of his predicament. Anything was better than staying in the van with me asleep. And sure enough, he came up a solution we had not thought of together.

My partner took the battery that had been in the boat and, with desperation; faith and a prayer believed it had rested long enough to start the van. I awoke to the roar of a racing engine and a resounding backfire. He's thrilled, I'm in shock and we are on our way. I have often thought that if he had secured a better connection to the battery while it was still in the boat we would have found that the battery was more than able to start the boat motor, but such things are better left undebated.

With renewed hope we cruised down out of the mountains and into the valley. Every moment bringing us closer to home and release. We almost made it.

About four miles from my partner's place, our last battery, drained of its final electron, brought us to a stop. No problem, all we had to do was find a phone and one of our spouses could come and rescue us. We were still in the country and the nearest phone was about a 1/8 of a mile away in a golf course clubhouse. While I remained with our possessions, my partner trotted off to call his wife. Forty minuets later he was back.

His wife, free of her lord and master for the morning, had fled the comforts of home and phone and could not be reached. I was a little irritated and asked if he had called my wife. For some unknown reason he had not. So without any understanding of his negligence I marched off to the golf course.

There is a feeling a man gets when wandering around a department store with no particular purpose and he wakes up to the realization that he is in the middle of the women's lingerie section and has absolutely no excuse. While all the ladies are dutifully engrossed in whatever they are doing, a man has invaded their domain and their conversations subside. They are on alert and watching for some hint of perversion, well prepared to escort their daughters to some other location. Filled with irritating embarrassment and trying not to show it, you beeline to some place with more metal such as automotive or hardware to hang out.

I was getting that same feeling as I walked up the steps to the clubhouse. I was very out of place. The clothes one puts on to go fishing have very little to do with aesthetics, warmth and comfort is the dress code of the day. Often the fisherman has a lucky shirt or hat to accent his attire or some other garment that is too good to throw away yet is not fit for polite society.

When you go fishing you go to the places other fisherman go to; bait shops, sporting goods stores, gas stations, lakeside diners, etc. and, as you are never far from your boat and fishing stuff, you fit right in.

There wasn't a stray fish for twenty miles of the clubhouse.

I was quite a sight. My fishing hat I had acquired from my partner years before. I shamed him into giving it to me after I discovered he had stored it during the off season with a fresh chunk of chicken liver riding on the brim, I explained that it needed a home where it would be loved and appreciated. It was a wool western style hat that fit me well and I had coveted it for a long time. The only other time I wore it was around the house doing early morning yard work. It was a lot more comfortable to wear than it was to look at.

I was semi-dry and looked like I had spent the night sleeping in a ditch. I needed a shave and a bath. Fishing tends to introduce one to fragrances that are only found near dairies and hog farms, and I smelled like I had brought both.

I managed to get inside the elegant entrance and take about two steps before I was discovered.

With no women about to protect at this early hour, the gentlemen in the lobby quickly defaulted to a stance that placed themselves between their wallets and me. A couple of them even had the foresight of appearing to closely inspect a particular golf club, obviously looking for fly specks while rotating the club with their fingers, ever ready to deal with this scruffy looking intruder.

I tipped my hat in politeness to no one in particular and focused my eyes on the path as I walked to the front desk. I asked the wide-eyed desk clerk if I could use the phone. I mumbled something about having been on an overnight fishing trip and that my vehicle had broke down and I wished to call for assistance.

Greatly relieved that I was not planning to pay a green fee, he directed me to a phone. The rest of the crowd went back to their business, assured that I was not going to be a problem and a few even had that been-there-done-that look of condolence.

Before I finished dialing, the lobby had cleared out to the fresh outdoors, I even saw someone stop another golfer who was about to enter and redirect his efforts.

The poor clerk was busy shuffling paper as far down the counter as he could get while trying to breath through his mouth and politely not stare.

With my wife on the way, I thanked the clerk and hurried off the property to no one's regret.

Fishing together is a very pleasant than alone. Sometimes we rent a fishing trukc for bersana with colleagues. We always spend time fishing together. With colleagues or for a family we really enjoy fishing. In addition we can also save costs.

Beautify The Aquarium With Plants

The aquarium is not only a place to live pet fish only, decorations such as live plants in the aquarium will also enhance your appearance and increase the attractiveness for people who see it. But in the set it can not be in vain, because the procedures needed to be pleasing to the eye. Previously, you certainly need a large aquarium, for example, not less than 90 cm. For aquarium that is too small, it would be difficult to arrange. Tools and materials needed are tools and the balance of water circulation in aquariums, such as: CO2 cylinders & Regulators, CO2 control, diffuser, bubble counter, CO2 test, pH balancing, thermometer, tweezers, bacterial filters, and sand filters. Equipment and materials mentioned above, serves to maintain the continuity of fish and plant life in the aquarium. So that the ecosystem in the aquarium can be maintained.

After that, the stages in the arrangement of plants can also be performed.

Preparation

  • Preparation After all equipment is prepared, place the aquarium in a designated place. Notice the aquarium harmony with the surrounding interior.



Media crops

  • Enter the appropriate plant media. Good medium size is 3 mm to 2 cm. Flatten to cover all the basic surface of the aquarium. On the back should be higher, because the plant will be enlarged. At the front of the sand is raised, so that the fertilizer is placed is not visible on the front lines. Then scatter fertilizer.

Closing The Sand

  • Closing the Collapse of sand or sand and gravel media with 3 to 5 cm thick, to keep the media up and the plants do not pollute the aquarium water. Create a sand surface decreased to one corner of the aquarium. The basin is formed will be a place mengendapnya solid impurities, so easy in the dirt.

Fill Water

  • When filling the water, preferably end of the hose is inserted into a plastic bag and tied. Faucet not be opened, too large, when the water had reached 2 cm above the sand, then the tap is opened fully. The goal, so that fertilizer in between the sand does not come out and make the water so murky. To avoid interference with the surface of the sand, enter the water with a plate and use a medium flow.

  • Plant the crop plants that fit in a place that had been planned. Living plants are used, should be of the type Microsorium, Javavern, Javamost or Floating bound to sink. Not all plants can be inserted into the aquarium. So choose one that fits and that you like.


Notice

  • Aesthetic Structuring existing plants in the aquarium also aesthetic, as well as inside the house. Plants used should be consistent with the desired arrangement, to look pretty. Put the smaller plants in front, who was in the middle and a big behind. Choose plants with amphibious species, ie who can live in two places (water and land). Controls aquarium with tools such as diffuser and Ph Balance. CO2 diffuser is controlled device in the water. Medium pH Balance is a tool to control the pH in the water.

Inserting Fish
  • At first the water will look cloudy, it takes about one or two weeks to fertilizer and water making it suitable for neutralizing the plant and fish life. After two weeks, the new fish could be included. Choose the type of fish that do not eat plants, so plants can thrive.


After three or four months, you will get a beautiful aquarium with ornamental plant life therein.

Thursday, July 15, 2010

Arowana Fish Breeding

Arowana fish farming has successfully developed a long time. This activity originated from the enlargement in the aquarium. But in about the year 2000 the Center for Freshwater Aquaculture Development successfully breeding of fish which is said to bring hockey to the owner, naturally.





Gonadal maturation and selection

Arowana fish gonad maturation was conducted in an aquarium. The trick: prepare an aquarium size 80 cm long, 60 cm wide and 50 cm high; dry for two days; water content as high as 40 cm; pairs of two points and turn on aeration during hatching; input a mother Arowana; news feed in the form of small fish or small shrimp, cleaned and replace the water every week. Selection of male to female is still elusive. Until now I still have not differentiate between male and female parent. The author also has not found a reference that explains about it.


Spawning

Arowana spawning ground with the water. How: ready pool size 1000 m2; dry for 4-5 days; fix all the parts thereof; make kemalir a width of 40 cm and 10 cm high; essentially averaged soil; water content as high as 60-80 cm and let it flow continuously; input 50 tails Arowana parent; news feed in the form of small fish and shrimp. let spawn naturally.

Note: Arowana fish will spawn naturally. The food is usually quite done several times only, such as tilapia or a thousand fish, two fish, then it will evolve by itself. Similarly, the shrimp will usually own ketch, because the shrimps including wild animals.

Harvest


Harvest done three months after the rainy season, around July and August. How, surutkan pool water up to as high as 20-30 cm or up to an altitude where the seeds could be arrested; catch Arowana parent with a fine net sekup; input into the plastic and fine accommodation in hapa installed near the pond spawning; also catch the seeds; input into the bucket ; density into the aquarium that had been prepared, with its completeness.

Note: To avoid disruption during the next spawning, then the wild fish, especially tilapia caught. After the completion of harvest, all the pool repaired, especially the dike, coated with a land base, if any leak was dismantled and closed again with earth




Prettiest Fish in the World

10. African Cichlids

This fish is pronounced as "Sick-lids." This fish is found in three lakes in Africa: Malawi, Tanganyika, and Victoria. Existing species in Lake Victoria the number is less diverse and less colorful than others. They usually grow to 6-7 inches, with the exception of Species Frontosoa, who can grow until 12-14 inches. This is ikan2 Ikan2 freshwater dipiara who could easily in a home aquarium. DiAfrika addition, there are also species of this fish in the waters of the Amazon who idup, but it was bigger and more aggressive than the antecedent of Africa.

9. Parrotfish



So called because the shape of bird beak-like mouth. This fish who uses her mouth like the beak to break down and eat the small invertebrates living in the area of coral. Usually they will eat the whole rocks and coral or sea sand munching abyssal invertebrates, then discard the rest of it.




8. Regal Tang


This is the fish in Finding Nemo is not it? Btw, this fish is considered in the Surgeonfish family, who have small knife from the lime who can be hidden in front of its tail fin. This small knife is used primarily for defense systems in the face of predators.





7
. Coral Beauty



This fish is categorized in angelfish. This fish can be stored in a home aquarium and can survive well in their habitat (hardy).








6. Flame Ange


This fish memikiki close relationship with the Coral Beauty. Same nature as the Coral Beauty, but nature does not 'seteguh' Coral Beauty.







5. Koi



There are many color variations of koi fish (about 100an). Koi can have orange, red, white, golden, or black. Some koi enthusiasts willing to pay thousands of dollars for a koi simply to find who koi rare color patterns.






4. Moorish Idol


This fish is considered difficult to dipiara in home aquariums, and also very expensive. In the source who read the cave, there is more information ga for these fish. Want googling?





3. Lionfish




Iit is also called Zebrafish. It has a poisonous spine in great painful and quite effective. People who take care of them surely have to be careful if you want to clean the tank







2. Discus


This fish is a species of freshwater fish is a fish who may be the most beautiful fresh water. The price is also very expensive: tillers who three inches in length ranging from $ 50 - $ 80.








1. Mandarinfish



There are two varieties of this species: Mandarinfish standards and Psychedelic Mandarin. The standards usually have a color pattern and who better than the Psychedelic. Ga lebihdari price $ 20 per cow, but off-the problem was the food.

Aquarium Construction

Container construction is very dependent on the design of the aquarium that will be done based on the desired shape aquarium. Forms commonly used as aquarium fish culture containers include rectangular aquarium, aquarium trapezoid, aquarium-eight terms, hexagonal aquariums, fish tanks and aquariums ellipse bottle. After the plan form of the glass aquarium that will be created, the next step to determine the size of glass that will be used to make the aquarium.

The size of glass that will be used typically ranges from 3 mm-16 mm. As reference in making the aquarium, the size of the glass to be used can be seen in Table 21. For glass to be used as the basis for the aquarium should be 1-2 mm in thickness added.

After determining the shape and size of glass that will be used to make the aquarium the next step to cut glass. Glass used to make the aquarium is still in the form of sheets of glass. There are several steps that must be observed in cut glass, among others, as follows.

  1. Place the sheets of glass on his desk, working desk should be in a state of flat and clean. This is to avoid the cracking of glass that will be used.
  2. The size of the glass to be cut is adapted to the shape of the aquarium that will be created. In making the pieces of glass, sheet glass made using the first pattern markers and metal ruler. Already established pattern can be directly deducted.
  3. To cut the glass using a glass cutter is sold in hardware stores.
  4. After the cut glass, the edges of the pieces of glass must be crushed with a grinder or whetstone carborundum.


After the glass needed to make the aquarium the next step is to set up assembly aquarium. In assembling an aquarium requires precision and accuracy of them together. Glass as the main ingredient in the manufacture of aquariums can be obtained by buying sheets of glass or buy a piece of glass in accordance with the appropriate size. Aquarium as one of the containers that can be used to cultivate good fish and ornamental fish, fish consumption from fresh and marine waters can be obtained by direct purchase in stores or make your own. By making their own aquarium will obtain advantages include relatively cheaper price, size according to needs, and has a thickness of glass used in accordance with the area of the aquarium that was made.

In making the aquarium, there are several things that must be mastered so that the aquarium does not leak and are made durable, which is designing / designing the aquarium, glass cutting, assembling and testing the aquarium to aquarium. Aquarium which will be assembled his own, the first step that must be done is to prepare the glass as the main basis of making the aquarium. Which will be assembled into a glass aquarium is already in the form of pieces of glass that size is adjusted to the size aquarium that will be created. Before assembling the glass is best done using the scrub karborundum grindstone or grinding. It aims to be an aquarium that was not harmful to the wearer.

Glass that has been smoothened by grinding all the sides are ready for assembly. The next step is to prepare tools and other materials ie glass silicon glue, glue fusil, a large duct tape, and cutter.

Glass glue silicon glue is used is a special glue to glue the glass to stick with the good and not leaking. Fusil silicon glue was used to facilitate the manufacturer in assembling an aquarium fish tank, the shape is like a gun fusil so called fusil.

While the duct tape used in assembling the aquarium should be plastic tape the brown or black with lakbannya 5 cm width. This tape serves to assist the establishment of glass with other glass in order not to shift that facilitates the provision of glass glue.

At the time of the glue stick to the glass should be the thickness of silicon glue on the entire surface of the glass together. This will create the same thickness of glue on each corner. After all assembled into a glass aquarium, the next step is to dry the aquarium for at least 24 hours for the silicon glue to dry completely.

The last step in assembling the aquarium is carried out tests on the aquarium. The test is done by filling water into the aquarium for 24 hours and see if there are parts of the leak. To obtain a neat aquarium tested clean after the glue that is not formalized by using the cutter.

Tuesday, June 15, 2010

How to Set Up a Freshwater Aquarium

Finding a Tank

The first decision you have to make when setting up an aquarium is deciding which aquarium is suitable for you. The larger the aquarium, the easier it is to manage the water quality of your aquarium. Clearly, you can also fit more fish. I suggest masking the top of the tank so that the unsightly water line won't show.

What your tank is made out of is as well significant, glass or acrylic. Acrylic tanks can have a variety of looks, like rounded edges, and they also are better insulators. Then again, these aquariums scuff easier and are much more costly. I recommend getting a simple glass tank unless you have a little extra cash to spend. Make sure that you have a stand that can carry the weight of your fish tank. Many tanks come with a stand, but if you elect to make your own or place it on furniture, take into account how heavy they are when full. A 50 gallon tank can weigh over 400 pounds. It is also a good idea to position a thin piece of styrofoam on top of the support, below your tank.
Positioning

The positioning of your tank is more significant than you suppose, mostly for the wellbeing of your fish. If you place your tank in an area where the temperature fluctuates a lot, you might have problems maintaining the tank's temperature. Furthermore, keep away from high traffic areas because fish are certainly conscious of what occurs outside of the fish tank and too much movement outside can make them shy and skittish.

Take into account the position of plug outlets and remember that your tank will make a little bit of noise. Most freshwater tanks require slightly warmed water with a heater, then again placing the tank in a place that will get extremely warm will be difficult on your fish because it is much harder to cool down the water than it is to heat it up.

Backdrop

Make sure that you get a backdrop for your tank as it will really enhance the look and atmosphere of your tank. Consider a dark backdrop if you are planning on having brilliantly colored fish as it will bring out their colors even more. Simply tape the backdrop onto the back of your aquarium.

Substrate

This is the stuff you put at the bottom of your aquarium. I suggest fine-grained, not only because I like how it looks, it is easier on your fish that stay at the bottom and like to rummage and reposition your substrate. Just like a backdrop, a dark substrate will bring out the color in bright fish. However, if you plan on using an under-gravel filter, you will want gravel, but you'll see my attitude on under-gravel filters in a minute. You should have about 2-3 inches of substrate to provide plants enough space and substrate-moving fish a sufficient amount to play around with. Fish that move the substrate around can be quite enjoyable to view.

Heater

Your heater ought to have about 4 watts to each gallon of water. Position a thermometer on the opposite side of the tank so as not to be influenced by the heater. If you put the heater next to a constant flow of water, most likely by your filter, it will help spread and warm up all the water in your aquarium. Make sure nothing is touching your heater.

Filtration

An internal filter is best for little tanks. It ought to be able to filter the entire volume of your tank each hour. These devices have foam inside that foster microorganisms to help get rid of harmful bacteria in your tank, in addition to removing debris.

External filters are better for bigger tanks because a bigger filter is required and will be too bulky within your tank. It should be able to filter double your tank's quantity every hour; it typically won't be able to filter at full capacity because of debris build up.

When washing your filters, just rinse half of the filter media at one time because you need some of the microorganisms to remain on the filter to continue cleaning your tank. A week after you may rinse the other half. Wash the filter housing regularly.

Decor

For a freshwater aquarium I highly suggest that you purchase all of your decor as opposed to finding it in nature. It is difficult to be sure what it is made of and may damage to your water quality. Make sure to wash it very thoroughly, you can even soak it for a while. Do not apply detergent. If you are planning on forming a configuration out of rocks, glue them together with silicone glue beforehand so that it won't fall down on your fish. Push the rock far down into the substrate to prevent tipovers.

Adding Water

Pour the water on a rock or into a bowl to prevent upsetting your substrate. Leave the water line about two inches below where you desire it as at this point you may still need to move things around. The water will probably be a little cloudy at first, but this will decrease. Turn on filter and heater, for most tropical fish the heater should be set at 77 degrees F.

The water needs to be dechlorinated, this will take place if you allow your tank to run for about 24 hours with proper aeration and water movement. Your filter ought to provide plenty of water movement and aeration because it will stir the water at the surface, encouraging oxygen assimilation into the water. Modify the direction of the outflow of your filter to guarantee this.

Lighting

Lighting is provided by either a hood or is suspended over the tank. The best option for a freshwater aquarium is usually a hood with fluorescent bulbs built into it. It is pretty straightforward to get all of this equipment nowadays because a lot of manufacturers sell all the equipment in one for a quick and simple start-up.

Adding Fish

Now you can fill your tank all the way to the top with water. One critical note about adding fish to your aquarium is BE PATIENT! One of the toughest things to do for a new aquarium owner is to let it run and not add fish. I made the mistake of immediately adding fish in my first tank and they all died within a few days. Your tank needs to colonize microorganisms that aid the nitrogen cycle along or else too many toxins form up in the tank.

Following set up, you can add a few small, resilient fish, like an algae eater, in order to get the nitrogen cycle going so that bacteria will build up. However, after this, do not add any more fish for three weeks. Fish added in the middle of this cycle will most likely die. After this three week period, you can start adding fish, however don't add all at once. Put in a few of the shyest and smallest first so they can get used to their environment before they are crammed full by others. Then a week or two later, you can add a few more. Add the largest and most active last.

One more slip-up of the beginning aquarist is to overcrowd your tank. If you own a normal rectangular tank that isn't too tall, one rule of thumb is one inch of fish per gallon of water. This doesn't always work precisely because a six inch fish uses more oxygen than six one inch fish, so modify appropriately. If you have a taller tank, the quantity of fish must be fewer than that.

Do your research on the fish that you choose since a lot of fish cannot coexist. Many big fish will bother or even devour smaller fish. Some small fish will nip the fins of long finned or slow moving fish. Lively fish can upset calm and inactive fish. Do your homework so that you don't end up with just one fish left because it ate the others! It is also imperative to check how big they get because fish are commonly sold as juveniles, so they are much smaller than they will be full grown. Get fish that will fit in your tank as adults.

At the store, check the fish carefully to be sure they are in excellent condition: they swim properly, they aren't missing scales, their fins appear to be whole, etc. When you bring your new fish home, place the plastic bag in your tank for 15 minutes so the fish can adjust to the temperature of your aquarium. If you have had them in the bag for over a half hour when you get home, you should undo the top of the bag during this adaptation time so they can breathe. After the 15 minutes, put in aquarium water about 10 times over the next ten minutes to the plastic bag. Then gently scoop the fish out of the bag with a net and place in your aquarium. This is done to evade compromising the water quality. These fish may hide from view for a while, but they will adjust.

Buying Aquarium Substrate

Now that you have already set up your tank and have chosen the types of fish you want to keep as pets, it’s high time that you start decorating your aquarium. Aquarium decorations add more aesthetic appeal to your tank and also provide artificial shelter for your fish. Having a plain-looking aquarium is fine, but if you want to create a stunning vista out of your fish tank, you need to get the right aquarium decorations.

You need to remember that you just can’t carelessly use some kinds of substrates with certain types of aquariums. If you have a planted aquarium, for example, you should use a nutrient-rich layer for the plants to survive. Aquarium gravel is used by many aquarists, especially those who own tropical and fish-only tanks.

Some aquarium owners may find decorating the fish tank quite challenging. With the wide array of decorations sold nowadays, from fake plants to decorative rocks, choosing specific accessories and decor can be difficult. If you have some difficulty in choosing aquarium decorations, you can start by choosing a theme.

When you have a theme in mind, it will be easier for you to choose aquarium decorations. Perhaps you want to recreate a rock landscape for your fish tank. There are many rocks and stones ideal as fish tank decorations. You can also find fake ones, which may be slightly expensive.

If you only have fish in your aquarium, you can use aquarium gravel since it provides an ideal environment for the growth of beneficial bacteria. You can find coarse options and finer varieties of gravel in pet stores, from 3mm to 4mm in sizes.

One of the most effective ways to lend a more natural look to your tank is to add plants. You can choose among real plants and artificial decorative plants. Artificial plants as aquarium decorations are ideal if you have a fish-only aquarium.

If you have a planted aquarium, however, you can use live plants to create a unique and natural landscape for your tank. You need to make sure, however, that you use the right substrate when having live plants in your tank. While gravel is ideal as a top layer to provide anchor to your plants, the first layer should be a nutrient-filled substrate.

Fine gravel is more ideal for bottom dwellers or bottom feeders. If you have a planted aquarium, you will need to use a nutrient-rich layer as the base. Gravel may be used for the upper layer. For fish tanks with crustaceans such as crabs, aquarium gravel is also recommended.

Sean Kerring is an aquarium enthusiast and breeder who has been working with fish for more than twenty years, when his parents gave him his very first fish tanks. He always tries to use innovative and changingly colored aquarium lights to change the themes of each of his tanks, including changing aquarium substrate compounds.

Saturday, June 12, 2010

Gravel Substrate For Goldfish Aquarium

Basically do not need a gold fish aquarium gravel but will be more unique if your gold fish aquarium given gravel. This gravel will not affect the growth of the gold fish. Not only is a gravel substrate aesthetically pleasing, it creates a place for beneficial nitrifying bacteria to grow. A quarter to two inch (1-5cm) layer of gravel substrate designed for use in aquariums increases the biological filtration of a goldfish aquarium. Even a quarter inch of gravel will allow beneficial nitrifying bacteria to grow. An aquarium gravel substrate of more than two inches can contain pockets of low oxygen and encourage the growth of harmful bacteria that produce gasses toxic to goldfish. Two inches or less of an aquarium gravel substrate also makes it more manageable to clean.

Aquarium gravel substrates have a way of trapping dirt and debris and keeping it from floating free in the goldfish aquarium water. If large particles find their way into the gravel substrate, they are less likely to disintegrate and turn the goldfish tank water cloudy. Using an aquarium gravel siphon, pollutants in the aquarium gravel are easy to eliminate from the goldfish aquarium. Every goldfish aquarium, gravel substrate or not, is going to need routine maintenance including cleaning the bottom of the tank.

Cleaning the aquarium gravel substrate might be a bit more difficult if it is used to anchor and root live aquatic plants. Some aquatic plants need to be anchored into a substrate in order to grow. There are aquatic plants that get their nutrients from the substrate itself or from the tank water. Depending on the growing requirements of an aquatic plant, the type of substrate in which it grows will vary. Many aquatic plants that are suitable for goldfish aquariums get their nutrients from the water and not the substrate.

Types of Aquarium Substrate
  • Aquatic Plant Substrate
  • River Sand
  • Fine Gravel
  • Medium Gravel
  • Colored Gravel
  • Coarse Gravel
  • Small Stones

The Ideal Goldfish Gravel Substrate


By nature, goldfish are scavengers and will feed off the bottom of a goldfish tank. A goldfish that is searching for food will often poke around in the substrate by moving around the pieces of substrate. If the substrate pieces are small and round enough, the goldfish might pick it up in its mouth and then spit it back out again. Goldfish do a good job of removing excess food off the top layer of substrate. This goldfish behavior eliminates aquatic plant substrate, river sand and small stones as an option, Goldfish will kick up sand and plant substrates when they dig at the tank bottom. This digging can cloudy the tank water and clog the filter and filter media. The small stones are too large for the goldfish to move around, not allowing them to eat the food that might be trapped between the stones.

The best goldfish aquarium substrate is a medium to small size rounded gravel. This gravel should be inert a doesn’t leach chemicals or colored dyes into the goldfish tank water. It’s easy to avoid using an aquarium substrate that leaches if the packaging clearly states ‘for use in aquariums’. It can be risky to use gravel, sand or stones from natural sources since it can leach pollutants or calcium which can throw off the pH in the goldfish tank water. Always rinse new gravel to remove dust before placing it in a goldfish aquarium.

Wednesday, June 9, 2010

Aquarium Plant Substrates Planting for Freshwater Aquarium Plants

The term 'substrate' refers to the planting medium used on the bottom of an aquarium. Similar to soil in a garden, substrates are needed by plants in order for them to root, obtain nutrients, and propagate.Keeping, maintaining, and ultimately propagating your aquarium plants is truly a joy, and it starts with a good substrate.

In natural environments, the substrate is typically slightly warmer than the water. It is also full of nutrients and dense. These things help the plants to root better, they receive better nutrition, and the warmer root conditions help in the growth of the plants. It is important to determine which soil is best for plant growth in the

In the aquarium, maintaining the substrate once it is set is usually fairly simple. Not much is needed. This is due to the normal activity of the aquarium. The fish and plants produce and release enough organic products, that then collect in the substrate, and in turn help the plants grow.
Once you've determined what type or types of plants you wish to keep, you can then determine which soil is best for plant growth in your planted aquarium.

  • For choosing the best types of plants for your aquascape, see:
Selecting Aquarium Plants Aquarium Design and Types of Aquatic Plants

Pet Supply Comparison Shopping

Choosing a Substrate: There are several things to take into consideration when choosing your planting medium. Which types of substrates to use are determined by:

  • First, the needs of the plants.
  • Then the type of aquarium equipment you will be using.
  • And finally the overall aquarium design you are looking to achieve.

Determining what type of substrate to use is extremely important for the plants. For healthy aquatic plants, the substrate provides nutrients for normal plant growth development and plant propagation. Several substrates available in most stores include: common pea gravel, aquarium gravel, sand, nutrient-rich and soil-based substrates, clay substrates, and quartz gravel (lime-free gravel). Often, different substrates can be mixed to obtain an optimum environment for your particular types of plants.

Substrate Considerations: There are different points to consider with each type of substrate such as the size of the particles and the depth of each substrate level.

  • Size of the substrate: Usually, you don't want substrates that have large particle size because it allows more water to pass through and also acts as a debris trap. Particle sizes should be approximately 0.04 to 0.12 inches in diameter.

  • Depth of the substrate: The depth of the substrate should be considered. How deep it is mostly depends on the type of plants present. Plants with longer roots need deeper substrates than plants with shorter roots. Usually a good rule of thumb is to have a substrate depth of between 2 and 4 inches.
  • Mineral and Organic Content: Another factor is the mineral and organic contents of the soil. Much of this is often provided by the aquarium water and the other organisms living in the aquarium, but nutrient-rich substrates are available if needed.

Substrate Layers:
The four main substrates layers are: base substrates, rooting substrates, nutrient-rich substrates, and top level substrates.

Base substrates: A base substrate is usually sand. Base substrates aren't usually necessary, except in the case of heating cables present on the bottom. In nature the substrate is usually warmer than the water, and the use of heating cables can simulate this in the planted aquarium. If you are using a heating cable, you will want a layer of sand that is about 1" - 1 1/2" deep to cover the cable.

Rooting substrates: The rooting substrates are the main body of the substrate, designed to help anchor the plants. They do contain some nutrients, but are dense enough so that not too much water can be passed through. This layer is generally about 2" deep.
Quart gravel or lime-free substrates are ideal as rooting substrates. Some of these substrates include products called flourite, acrilite, or Onyx sand (a newer product from Seachem). Soil or potting soil is not often used because it is difficult to keep from clouding the water. It can be used and then covered with a heavier top level substrate, but you may still experience a muddying of the water.

Nutrient-rich substrates: Nutrient-rich substrates contain high levels of nutrients and only a thin layer of them should be used. This layer is used solely for the benefit of the plants and are designed to be used in limited quantities. Some nutrient-rich substrates include laterite and soil or potting soil. Laterite is too rich in nutrients for a rooting substrate and should be used sparingly. It can be added by rolling it up into little balls and placing the balls next to the plant roots.

Top level substrates: The top level substrate is the one that is visible to viewers and does not serve any other major function. This is a good place for coarser gravels and can be quite decorative, depending on the type of aquarium scene you are creating.

Substrate Types:

Common Pea Gravel: This gravel is very similar to what you would see in a natural environment. Used alone the normal common pea gravel sold in stores is generally not ideal for plants. Pea gravel is fairly loose thereby making it easy for water to flow through it, thus cooling the roots, oxygenating the gravel, and removing nutrients.
You can however use the smallest grade for a rooting medium though a lime-free quartz gravel is a better alternative. This gravel does work well as a top layer over finer substrates, or combined with other substrates to obtain a more realistic 'river' type display.

Quartz Gravel (lime-free substrate): Quartz gravel or a lime-free substrate is ideal as a rooting medium for plants. You can get it in a golden brown, black or white.

Colored (aquarium) Gravel: This is much like the common pea gravel and is also not ideal for plants. Again it is fairly loose and allows for easy water flow through it.
It can be mixed with other substrates for a visual variation, and will work well as a top layer over finer substrates. Light gray gravel is not a good choice however, as it causes distress in the fish due to how strongly the light is reflected off of it.

Calcius gravels: Crushed coral and other calcius sands or gravels that are offered for saltwater aquariums are high in calcium. They should be avoided unless you need a high pH and water hardness, few plants want this. These gravels work well in freshwater fish aquariums that are designed for African cichlids that need these high levels.

Sand: Sand is very fine, often even dusty. The 'silver sand' sold in aquarium shops is totally inert. Sand will compact and prevent any water movement resulting in a lack of oxygen.
Though sand can be used in a thin layer as a rooting medium for some plants, you will want to stir it occasionally to keep it from compacting. It is generally used as a base layer over heating cables.

Soil, Potting Soil: This substrate can be tricky to use as it can have too many nutrients and it may encourage algae growth. Also it is difficult to keep it from clouding the water.
Potting Soil is sometimes used as a thin nutrient-rich substrate layer and covered with a heavier top substrate. It has also been effectively used in permanent pots that are covered with a heavier top substrates. The potted method can be used in aquariums with undergravel filters.

Nutrient-rich Substrates: These are a long term source of nutrients that are vital to the plants. They should be used in limited quantities of either very thin layers between other substrate layers or as small pellets placed by the roots of plants. See the Nutrient rich layer described above for some of these products.

Saturday, June 5, 2010

How to Use Gravel Vacuum Your Home Aqurium



Cleaning the aquarium is very important to keep your fish. One is cleaning the gravel aquarium. But know how to properly use aquarium gravel vacuum can make the experience less than homework.

A gravel vacuum is a tool that should be in every aquarist’s arsenal. Not only does it make water changes easier, but will save time on such routine maintenance. By removing excess waste and organic matter from the substrate, fish health will improve due to the resulting decrease in ammonia, nitrites, and nitrates. The efficiency also allows one to clean a larger area, and maneuver into caves and hiding spots where debris can accumulate.

Cleaning Freshwater Aquariums with Gravel or Rocky Substrate

Some gravel vacuums come with special attachments or heads that are designed to start the siphoning process by shaking the vacuum. Remove these attachments so that all that is remaining is the cylindrical siphon head attached to the hose.

Before starting, make sure that the hose end of the vacuum is placed securely in a bucket or similar container to catch the discarded aquarium water. Gravel vacuums are gravity fed, meaning that whatever container is being used must be placed below the aquarium. If it is placed at an equal or lower level, the vacuum may not be able to start or maintain the siphoning process.

Submerge the cylindrical head of the vacuum in the aquarium until it fills with water. When full, remove the head from the water. The water will begin to drain into the bucket and the cylinder will empty. Before it empties completely, re-submerge it in the aquarium. A pocket of air will form and flow through the vacuum. This trapped air passes through the hose and creates a siphoning effect that will continuously draw water through the vacuum until the head is removed from the water. Be cautious as to not let the bucket overflow.

Push the vacuum head into the gravel. The vacuum will draw gravel up into the cylindrical head, pulling with it debris, fish waste, and organic matter. If gravel is drawn too far into the cylinder or begins to be drawn into the hose, either tap the vacuum head to dispense the gravel, or remove the vacuum from the water and start over.

Sift through the gravel slowly, and try to cover as much area as possible. Make sure to take extra care in cleaning in caves and hiding spots, as these areas tend to accumulate the most waste. Be cautious as to not drain more than 30-40 percent of the aquarium water, which could result in the decimation of beneficial bacteria colonies.

Using a Gravel Vacuum in Saltwater and in Aquariums with Fine Sand

One of the major complaints regarding gravel vacuums is the difficulty in not sucking up sand into the vacuum hose. There a few simple tricks to prevent this from happening.

When vacuuming sand and other fine substrates, do not plunge the vacuum head directly into the substrate. Unlike gravel and larger rocks, waste doesn’t usually collect under the surface or between substrate particles. It usually settles on the top. Wave the vacuum head over the surface lightly in an attempt to collect the organic matter and waste that has settled on top. You can also lightly swirl the vacuum head to kick up any waste and immediately siphon it out.

If sand is drawn into the vacuum, pinch the hose in order to reduce the flow rate. When this happens, water will still be drawn through the vacuum, but the force of the suction will not be so great as to draw in the sand. Lightly tap the vacuum head to remove any sand, or remove the vacuum from the water and start over. This technique will also work in saltwater aquariums with living sand or crushed coral.

Cleaning Very Small or Delicate Aquariums with an Aquarium Vacuum

Some aquariums are just too small or oddly shaped to clean with a gravel vacuum. Also, there may be situations in which the water cannot be disturbed, such as breeding tanks with bubble nests or delicate planted aquaria. To combat this, remove the entire vacuum head so that all that is remaining is the hose. Dip a length of the hose in the water and allow it to fill. Remove the hose from the water until it begins to drain. Before the water empties from the hose, place a thumb or finger over the hole to block the water flow. Now place the hose tip back in the water and cease blocking the flow. A siphon effect will be created, and now the hose alone will act as a very small gravel vacuum, allowing the aquarist to clean and navigate in very small spaces without creating much disturbance.

A gravel vacuum is an essential tool for any home aquarist, and regular aquarium cleaning and water changes will always help lead one to success with healthy, happy fish.