Beautify The Aquarium With Plants

The aquarium is not only a place to live pet fish only, decorations such as live plants in the aquarium will also enhance your appearance and increase the attractiveness for people who see it. But in the set it can not be in vain, because the procedures needed to be pleasing to the eye. Previously, you certainly need a large aquarium, for example, not less than 90 cm. For aquarium that is too small, it would be difficult to arrange. Tools and materials needed are tools and the balance of water circulation in aquariums, such as: CO2 cylinders & Regulators, CO2 control, diffuser, bubble counter, CO2 test, pH balancing, thermometer, tweezers, bacterial filters, and sand filters. Equipment and materials mentioned above, serves to maintain the continuity of fish and plant life in the aquarium. So that the ecosystem in the aquarium can be maintained.

After that, the stages in the arrangement of plants can also be performed.

Preparation

• Preparation After all equipment is prepared, place the aquarium in a designated place. Notice the aquarium harmony with the surrounding interior.

Media crops

• Enter the appropriate plant media. Good medium size is 3 mm to 2 cm. Flatten to cover all the basic surface of the aquarium. On the back should be higher, because the plant will be enlarged. At the front of the sand is raised, so that the fertilizer is placed is not visible on the front lines. Then scatter fertilizer.

Closing The Sand

• Closing the Collapse of sand or sand and gravel media with 3 to 5 cm thick, to keep the media up and the plants do not pollute the aquarium water. Create a sand surface decreased to one corner of the aquarium. The basin is formed will be a place mengendapnya solid impurities, so easy in the dirt.

Fill Water

• When filling the water, preferably end of the hose is inserted into a plastic bag and tied. Faucet not be opened, too large, when the water had reached 2 cm above the sand, then the tap is opened fully. The goal, so that fertilizer in between the sand does not come out and make the water so murky. To avoid interference with the surface of the sand, enter the water with a plate and use a medium flow.

• Plant the crop plants that fit in a place that had been planned. Living plants are used, should be of the type Microsorium, Javavern, Javamost or Floating bound to sink. Not all plants can be inserted into the aquarium. So choose one that fits and that you like.

Notice

• Aesthetic Structuring existing plants in the aquarium also aesthetic, as well as inside the house. Plants used should be consistent with the desired arrangement, to look pretty. Put the smaller plants in front, who was in the middle and a big behind. Choose plants with amphibious species, ie who can live in two places (water and land). Controls aquarium with tools such as diffuser and Ph Balance. CO2 diffuser is controlled device in the water. Medium pH Balance is a tool to control the pH in the water.

Inserting Fish

• At first the water will look cloudy, it takes about one or two weeks to fertilizer and water making it suitable for neutralizing the plant and fish life. After two weeks, the new fish could be included. Choose the type of fish that do not eat plants, so plants can thrive.

After three or four months, you will get a beautiful aquarium with ornamental plant life therein.

How to Set Up a Freshwater Aquarium

Finding a Tank

The first decision you have to make when setting up an aquarium is deciding which aquarium is suitable for you. The larger the aquarium, the easier it is to manage the water quality of your aquarium. Clearly, you can also fit more fish. I suggest masking the top of the tank so that the unsightly water line won't show.

What your tank is made out of is as well significant, glass or acrylic. Acrylic tanks can have a variety of looks, like rounded edges, and they also are better insulators. Then again, these aquariums scuff easier and are much more costly. I recommend getting a simple glass tank unless you have a little extra cash to spend. Make sure that you have a stand that can carry the weight of your fish tank. Many tanks come with a stand, but if you elect to make your own or place it on furniture, take into account how heavy they are when full. A 50 gallon tank can weigh over 400 pounds. It is also a good idea to position a thin piece of styrofoam on top of the support, below your tank.
Positioning

The positioning of your tank is more significant than you suppose, mostly for the wellbeing of your fish. If you place your tank in an area where the temperature fluctuates a lot, you might have problems maintaining the tank's temperature. Furthermore, keep away from high traffic areas because fish are certainly conscious of what occurs outside of the fish tank and too much movement outside can make them shy and skittish.

Take into account the position of plug outlets and remember that your tank will make a little bit of noise. Most freshwater tanks require slightly warmed water with a heater, then again placing the tank in a place that will get extremely warm will be difficult on your fish because it is much harder to cool down the water than it is to heat it up.

Backdrop

Make sure that you get a backdrop for your tank as it will really enhance the look and atmosphere of your tank. Consider a dark backdrop if you are planning on having brilliantly colored fish as it will bring out their colors even more. Simply tape the backdrop onto the back of your aquarium.

Substrate

This is the stuff you put at the bottom of your aquarium. I suggest fine-grained, not only because I like how it looks, it is easier on your fish that stay at the bottom and like to rummage and reposition your substrate. Just like a backdrop, a dark substrate will bring out the color in bright fish. However, if you plan on using an under-gravel filter, you will want gravel, but you'll see my attitude on under-gravel filters in a minute. You should have about 2-3 inches of substrate to provide plants enough space and substrate-moving fish a sufficient amount to play around with. Fish that move the substrate around can be quite enjoyable to view.

Heater

Your heater ought to have about 4 watts to each gallon of water. Position a thermometer on the opposite side of the tank so as not to be influenced by the heater. If you put the heater next to a constant flow of water, most likely by your filter, it will help spread and warm up all the water in your aquarium. Make sure nothing is touching your heater.

Filtration

An internal filter is best for little tanks. It ought to be able to filter the entire volume of your tank each hour. These devices have foam inside that foster microorganisms to help get rid of harmful bacteria in your tank, in addition to removing debris.

External filters are better for bigger tanks because a bigger filter is required and will be too bulky within your tank. It should be able to filter double your tank's quantity every hour; it typically won't be able to filter at full capacity because of debris build up.

When washing your filters, just rinse half of the filter media at one time because you need some of the microorganisms to remain on the filter to continue cleaning your tank. A week after you may rinse the other half. Wash the filter housing regularly.

Decor

For a freshwater aquarium I highly suggest that you purchase all of your decor as opposed to finding it in nature. It is difficult to be sure what it is made of and may damage to your water quality. Make sure to wash it very thoroughly, you can even soak it for a while. Do not apply detergent. If you are planning on forming a configuration out of rocks, glue them together with silicone glue beforehand so that it won't fall down on your fish. Push the rock far down into the substrate to prevent tipovers.

Adding Water

Pour the water on a rock or into a bowl to prevent upsetting your substrate. Leave the water line about two inches below where you desire it as at this point you may still need to move things around. The water will probably be a little cloudy at first, but this will decrease. Turn on filter and heater, for most tropical fish the heater should be set at 77 degrees F.

The water needs to be dechlorinated, this will take place if you allow your tank to run for about 24 hours with proper aeration and water movement. Your filter ought to provide plenty of water movement and aeration because it will stir the water at the surface, encouraging oxygen assimilation into the water. Modify the direction of the outflow of your filter to guarantee this.

Lighting

Lighting is provided by either a hood or is suspended over the tank. The best option for a freshwater aquarium is usually a hood with fluorescent bulbs built into it. It is pretty straightforward to get all of this equipment nowadays because a lot of manufacturers sell all the equipment in one for a quick and simple start-up.

Adding Fish

Now you can fill your tank all the way to the top with water. One critical note about adding fish to your aquarium is BE PATIENT! One of the toughest things to do for a new aquarium owner is to let it run and not add fish. I made the mistake of immediately adding fish in my first tank and they all died within a few days. Your tank needs to colonize microorganisms that aid the nitrogen cycle along or else too many toxins form up in the tank.

Following set up, you can add a few small, resilient fish, like an algae eater, in order to get the nitrogen cycle going so that bacteria will build up. However, after this, do not add any more fish for three weeks. Fish added in the middle of this cycle will most likely die. After this three week period, you can start adding fish, however don't add all at once. Put in a few of the shyest and smallest first so they can get used to their environment before they are crammed full by others. Then a week or two later, you can add a few more. Add the largest and most active last.

One more slip-up of the beginning aquarist is to overcrowd your tank. If you own a normal rectangular tank that isn't too tall, one rule of thumb is one inch of fish per gallon of water. This doesn't always work precisely because a six inch fish uses more oxygen than six one inch fish, so modify appropriately. If you have a taller tank, the quantity of fish must be fewer than that.

Do your research on the fish that you choose since a lot of fish cannot coexist. Many big fish will bother or even devour smaller fish. Some small fish will nip the fins of long finned or slow moving fish. Lively fish can upset calm and inactive fish. Do your homework so that you don't end up with just one fish left because it ate the others! It is also imperative to check how big they get because fish are commonly sold as juveniles, so they are much smaller than they will be full grown. Get fish that will fit in your tank as adults.

At the store, check the fish carefully to be sure they are in excellent condition: they swim properly, they aren't missing scales, their fins appear to be whole, etc. When you bring your new fish home, place the plastic bag in your tank for 15 minutes so the fish can adjust to the temperature of your aquarium. If you have had them in the bag for over a half hour when you get home, you should undo the top of the bag during this adaptation time so they can breathe. After the 15 minutes, put in aquarium water about 10 times over the next ten minutes to the plastic bag. Then gently scoop the fish out of the bag with a net and place in your aquarium. This is done to evade compromising the water quality. These fish may hide from view for a while, but they will adjust.

How to Use Gravel Vacuum Your Home Aqurium

Cleaning the aquarium is very important to keep your fish. One is cleaning the gravel aquarium. But know how to properly use aquarium gravel vacuum can make the experience less than homework.

A gravel vacuum is a tool that should be in every aquarist’s arsenal. Not only does it make water changes easier, but will save time on such routine maintenance. By removing excess waste and organic matter from the substrate, fish health will improve due to the resulting decrease in ammonia, nitrites, and nitrates. The efficiency also allows one to clean a larger area, and maneuver into caves and hiding spots where debris can accumulate.

Cleaning Freshwater Aquariums with Gravel or Rocky Substrate

Some gravel vacuums come with special attachments or heads that are designed to start the siphoning process by shaking the vacuum. Remove these attachments so that all that is remaining is the cylindrical siphon head attached to the hose.

Before starting, make sure that the hose end of the vacuum is placed securely in a bucket or similar container to catch the discarded aquarium water. Gravel vacuums are gravity fed, meaning that whatever container is being used must be placed below the aquarium. If it is placed at an equal or lower level, the vacuum may not be able to start or maintain the siphoning process.

Submerge the cylindrical head of the vacuum in the aquarium until it fills with water. When full, remove the head from the water. The water will begin to drain into the bucket and the cylinder will empty. Before it empties completely, re-submerge it in the aquarium. A pocket of air will form and flow through the vacuum. This trapped air passes through the hose and creates a siphoning effect that will continuously draw water through the vacuum until the head is removed from the water. Be cautious as to not let the bucket overflow.

Push the vacuum head into the gravel. The vacuum will draw gravel up into the cylindrical head, pulling with it debris, fish waste, and organic matter. If gravel is drawn too far into the cylinder or begins to be drawn into the hose, either tap the vacuum head to dispense the gravel, or remove the vacuum from the water and start over.

Sift through the gravel slowly, and try to cover as much area as possible. Make sure to take extra care in cleaning in caves and hiding spots, as these areas tend to accumulate the most waste. Be cautious as to not drain more than 30-40 percent of the aquarium water, which could result in the decimation of beneficial bacteria colonies.

Using a Gravel Vacuum in Saltwater and in Aquariums with Fine Sand

One of the major complaints regarding gravel vacuums is the difficulty in not sucking up sand into the vacuum hose. There a few simple tricks to prevent this from happening.

When vacuuming sand and other fine substrates, do not plunge the vacuum head directly into the substrate. Unlike gravel and larger rocks, waste doesn’t usually collect under the surface or between substrate particles. It usually settles on the top. Wave the vacuum head over the surface lightly in an attempt to collect the organic matter and waste that has settled on top. You can also lightly swirl the vacuum head to kick up any waste and immediately siphon it out.

If sand is drawn into the vacuum, pinch the hose in order to reduce the flow rate. When this happens, water will still be drawn through the vacuum, but the force of the suction will not be so great as to draw in the sand. Lightly tap the vacuum head to remove any sand, or remove the vacuum from the water and start over. This technique will also work in saltwater aquariums with living sand or crushed coral.

Cleaning Very Small or Delicate Aquariums with an Aquarium Vacuum

Some aquariums are just too small or oddly shaped to clean with a gravel vacuum. Also, there may be situations in which the water cannot be disturbed, such as breeding tanks with bubble nests or delicate planted aquaria. To combat this, remove the entire vacuum head so that all that is remaining is the hose. Dip a length of the hose in the water and allow it to fill. Remove the hose from the water until it begins to drain. Before the water empties from the hose, place a thumb or finger over the hole to block the water flow. Now place the hose tip back in the water and cease blocking the flow. A siphon effect will be created, and now the hose alone will act as a very small gravel vacuum, allowing the aquarist to clean and navigate in very small spaces without creating much disturbance.

A gravel vacuum is an essential tool for any home aquarist, and regular aquarium cleaning and water changes will always help lead one to success with healthy, happy fish.

Simple Steps to Buy Aquarium Gravel

Aquarium gravel is very important for your aquarium. Color and type of aquarium gravel you not only highlights your fish in your own unique style, but also gravel harbor beneficial bacteria that your aquarium. Type of gravel you choose depends on the type of fish and aquarium species you have.

Difficulty: Easy
Instructions

Step 1
Pick common aquarium gravel for fish-only aquariums. Use fine gravel if you have bottom feeders in the tank. Sand is also appropriate to use in these tanks.

Step 2
Provide an environment for marine and reef wildlife in your aquarium with aragonite and crushed coral. In this kind of aquarium, it's important to have gravel with calcium and magnesium to help balance the pH level.

Step 3
Grow plants in your aquarium with two layers of gravel. The bottom layer should consist of vermiculite and laterite. These types of gravel actually store water and nutrients for your plants. A top layer of regular gravel or sand will prevent your plants' nutrients from washing out.

Step 4
Consider your personal style. Within the accepted guidelines of appropriate gravel, there are numerous options to pick and choose colors to match your style. Pick something that you can stick with because it takes a lot of effort to change your gravel once you have an established aquarium.

Tips & Warnings
Some popular types of gravel may be aesthetically pleasing, but their impurities make them inappropriate for use in your aquarium. Sea sand, painted gravel and glass pebbles can all have a detrimental impact on your aquarium.
Deep layers of gravel can pose a significant danger to your fish. Food particles can sink into a less oxygenated area. Over time, this can produce a rotten egg smell that can kill your fish.

Aquarium Gravel Cleaning

Did you know your aquarium gravel you've just bought to put in the aquarium have been in the wash first? Don't worry, it only takes a few simple steps.
Difficulty: Easy
Time Required: 30 minutes
Here's How:

1. Purchase enough gravel to cover the aquarium bottom approximately three inches deep.
2. If you don't already have one, purchase a 5 gallon bucket and label it for aquarium use only. Aquarium buckets should never have soap in them.
3. Place a large clean sieve, at least 6 inches across, over the bucket. Fill the sieve half full of gravel.
4. Pour water over the gravel in the sieve, while gently shaking it. Rinsing the gravel over the bucket rather than over a drain, allows gravel that slips through the sieve to be caught instead of going down the drain. Continue pouring water over the gravel until the water runs clear. Several washings are usually required.
5. Once the water runs clear, the gravel is ready to be used. It may be placed directly into the tank or in a clean bucket or container.
6. Repeat steps three through five until you have washed enough gravel to fill the aquarium three inches deep.

Tips:

1. A rule of thumb for the amount of gravel to use is one pound of gravel per each gallon of water.
2. Old buckets may be used if they are thoroughly cleaned with bleach, rinsed well, and allowed to air dry.

What You Need:

• 6" or larger sieve
• 5 gallon bucket