How to Set Up a Freshwater Aquarium

Finding a Tank

The first decision you have to make when setting up an aquarium is deciding which aquarium is suitable for you. The larger the aquarium, the easier it is to manage the water quality of your aquarium. Clearly, you can also fit more fish. I suggest masking the top of the tank so that the unsightly water line won't show.

What your tank is made out of is as well significant, glass or acrylic. Acrylic tanks can have a variety of looks, like rounded edges, and they also are better insulators. Then again, these aquariums scuff easier and are much more costly. I recommend getting a simple glass tank unless you have a little extra cash to spend. Make sure that you have a stand that can carry the weight of your fish tank. Many tanks come with a stand, but if you elect to make your own or place it on furniture, take into account how heavy they are when full. A 50 gallon tank can weigh over 400 pounds. It is also a good idea to position a thin piece of styrofoam on top of the support, below your tank.
Positioning

The positioning of your tank is more significant than you suppose, mostly for the wellbeing of your fish. If you place your tank in an area where the temperature fluctuates a lot, you might have problems maintaining the tank's temperature. Furthermore, keep away from high traffic areas because fish are certainly conscious of what occurs outside of the fish tank and too much movement outside can make them shy and skittish.

Take into account the position of plug outlets and remember that your tank will make a little bit of noise. Most freshwater tanks require slightly warmed water with a heater, then again placing the tank in a place that will get extremely warm will be difficult on your fish because it is much harder to cool down the water than it is to heat it up.

Backdrop

Make sure that you get a backdrop for your tank as it will really enhance the look and atmosphere of your tank. Consider a dark backdrop if you are planning on having brilliantly colored fish as it will bring out their colors even more. Simply tape the backdrop onto the back of your aquarium.

Substrate

This is the stuff you put at the bottom of your aquarium. I suggest fine-grained, not only because I like how it looks, it is easier on your fish that stay at the bottom and like to rummage and reposition your substrate. Just like a backdrop, a dark substrate will bring out the color in bright fish. However, if you plan on using an under-gravel filter, you will want gravel, but you'll see my attitude on under-gravel filters in a minute. You should have about 2-3 inches of substrate to provide plants enough space and substrate-moving fish a sufficient amount to play around with. Fish that move the substrate around can be quite enjoyable to view.

Heater

Your heater ought to have about 4 watts to each gallon of water. Position a thermometer on the opposite side of the tank so as not to be influenced by the heater. If you put the heater next to a constant flow of water, most likely by your filter, it will help spread and warm up all the water in your aquarium. Make sure nothing is touching your heater.

Filtration

An internal filter is best for little tanks. It ought to be able to filter the entire volume of your tank each hour. These devices have foam inside that foster microorganisms to help get rid of harmful bacteria in your tank, in addition to removing debris.

External filters are better for bigger tanks because a bigger filter is required and will be too bulky within your tank. It should be able to filter double your tank's quantity every hour; it typically won't be able to filter at full capacity because of debris build up.

When washing your filters, just rinse half of the filter media at one time because you need some of the microorganisms to remain on the filter to continue cleaning your tank. A week after you may rinse the other half. Wash the filter housing regularly.

Decor

For a freshwater aquarium I highly suggest that you purchase all of your decor as opposed to finding it in nature. It is difficult to be sure what it is made of and may damage to your water quality. Make sure to wash it very thoroughly, you can even soak it for a while. Do not apply detergent. If you are planning on forming a configuration out of rocks, glue them together with silicone glue beforehand so that it won't fall down on your fish. Push the rock far down into the substrate to prevent tipovers.

Adding Water

Pour the water on a rock or into a bowl to prevent upsetting your substrate. Leave the water line about two inches below where you desire it as at this point you may still need to move things around. The water will probably be a little cloudy at first, but this will decrease. Turn on filter and heater, for most tropical fish the heater should be set at 77 degrees F.

The water needs to be dechlorinated, this will take place if you allow your tank to run for about 24 hours with proper aeration and water movement. Your filter ought to provide plenty of water movement and aeration because it will stir the water at the surface, encouraging oxygen assimilation into the water. Modify the direction of the outflow of your filter to guarantee this.

Lighting

Lighting is provided by either a hood or is suspended over the tank. The best option for a freshwater aquarium is usually a hood with fluorescent bulbs built into it. It is pretty straightforward to get all of this equipment nowadays because a lot of manufacturers sell all the equipment in one for a quick and simple start-up.

Adding Fish

Now you can fill your tank all the way to the top with water. One critical note about adding fish to your aquarium is BE PATIENT! One of the toughest things to do for a new aquarium owner is to let it run and not add fish. I made the mistake of immediately adding fish in my first tank and they all died within a few days. Your tank needs to colonize microorganisms that aid the nitrogen cycle along or else too many toxins form up in the tank.

Following set up, you can add a few small, resilient fish, like an algae eater, in order to get the nitrogen cycle going so that bacteria will build up. However, after this, do not add any more fish for three weeks. Fish added in the middle of this cycle will most likely die. After this three week period, you can start adding fish, however don't add all at once. Put in a few of the shyest and smallest first so they can get used to their environment before they are crammed full by others. Then a week or two later, you can add a few more. Add the largest and most active last.

One more slip-up of the beginning aquarist is to overcrowd your tank. If you own a normal rectangular tank that isn't too tall, one rule of thumb is one inch of fish per gallon of water. This doesn't always work precisely because a six inch fish uses more oxygen than six one inch fish, so modify appropriately. If you have a taller tank, the quantity of fish must be fewer than that.

Do your research on the fish that you choose since a lot of fish cannot coexist. Many big fish will bother or even devour smaller fish. Some small fish will nip the fins of long finned or slow moving fish. Lively fish can upset calm and inactive fish. Do your homework so that you don't end up with just one fish left because it ate the others! It is also imperative to check how big they get because fish are commonly sold as juveniles, so they are much smaller than they will be full grown. Get fish that will fit in your tank as adults.

At the store, check the fish carefully to be sure they are in excellent condition: they swim properly, they aren't missing scales, their fins appear to be whole, etc. When you bring your new fish home, place the plastic bag in your tank for 15 minutes so the fish can adjust to the temperature of your aquarium. If you have had them in the bag for over a half hour when you get home, you should undo the top of the bag during this adaptation time so they can breathe. After the 15 minutes, put in aquarium water about 10 times over the next ten minutes to the plastic bag. Then gently scoop the fish out of the bag with a net and place in your aquarium. This is done to evade compromising the water quality. These fish may hide from view for a while, but they will adjust.

Buying Aquarium Substrate

Now that you have already set up your tank and have chosen the types of fish you want to keep as pets, it’s high time that you start decorating your aquarium. Aquarium decorations add more aesthetic appeal to your tank and also provide artificial shelter for your fish. Having a plain-looking aquarium is fine, but if you want to create a stunning vista out of your fish tank, you need to get the right aquarium decorations.

You need to remember that you just can’t carelessly use some kinds of substrates with certain types of aquariums. If you have a planted aquarium, for example, you should use a nutrient-rich layer for the plants to survive. Aquarium gravel is used by many aquarists, especially those who own tropical and fish-only tanks.

Some aquarium owners may find decorating the fish tank quite challenging. With the wide array of decorations sold nowadays, from fake plants to decorative rocks, choosing specific accessories and decor can be difficult. If you have some difficulty in choosing aquarium decorations, you can start by choosing a theme.

When you have a theme in mind, it will be easier for you to choose aquarium decorations. Perhaps you want to recreate a rock landscape for your fish tank. There are many rocks and stones ideal as fish tank decorations. You can also find fake ones, which may be slightly expensive.

If you only have fish in your aquarium, you can use aquarium gravel since it provides an ideal environment for the growth of beneficial bacteria. You can find coarse options and finer varieties of gravel in pet stores, from 3mm to 4mm in sizes.

One of the most effective ways to lend a more natural look to your tank is to add plants. You can choose among real plants and artificial decorative plants. Artificial plants as aquarium decorations are ideal if you have a fish-only aquarium.

If you have a planted aquarium, however, you can use live plants to create a unique and natural landscape for your tank. You need to make sure, however, that you use the right substrate when having live plants in your tank. While gravel is ideal as a top layer to provide anchor to your plants, the first layer should be a nutrient-filled substrate.

Fine gravel is more ideal for bottom dwellers or bottom feeders. If you have a planted aquarium, you will need to use a nutrient-rich layer as the base. Gravel may be used for the upper layer. For fish tanks with crustaceans such as crabs, aquarium gravel is also recommended.

Sean Kerring is an aquarium enthusiast and breeder who has been working with fish for more than twenty years, when his parents gave him his very first fish tanks. He always tries to use innovative and changingly colored aquarium lights to change the themes of each of his tanks, including changing aquarium substrate compounds.

Gravel Substrate For Goldfish Aquarium

Basically do not need a gold fish aquarium gravel but will be more unique if your gold fish aquarium given gravel. This gravel will not affect the growth of the gold fish. Not only is a gravel substrate aesthetically pleasing, it creates a place for beneficial nitrifying bacteria to grow. A quarter to two inch (1-5cm) layer of gravel substrate designed for use in aquariums increases the biological filtration of a goldfish aquarium. Even a quarter inch of gravel will allow beneficial nitrifying bacteria to grow. An aquarium gravel substrate of more than two inches can contain pockets of low oxygen and encourage the growth of harmful bacteria that produce gasses toxic to goldfish. Two inches or less of an aquarium gravel substrate also makes it more manageable to clean.

Aquarium gravel substrates have a way of trapping dirt and debris and keeping it from floating free in the goldfish aquarium water. If large particles find their way into the gravel substrate, they are less likely to disintegrate and turn the goldfish tank water cloudy. Using an aquarium gravel siphon, pollutants in the aquarium gravel are easy to eliminate from the goldfish aquarium. Every goldfish aquarium, gravel substrate or not, is going to need routine maintenance including cleaning the bottom of the tank.

Cleaning the aquarium gravel substrate might be a bit more difficult if it is used to anchor and root live aquatic plants. Some aquatic plants need to be anchored into a substrate in order to grow. There are aquatic plants that get their nutrients from the substrate itself or from the tank water. Depending on the growing requirements of an aquatic plant, the type of substrate in which it grows will vary. Many aquatic plants that are suitable for goldfish aquariums get their nutrients from the water and not the substrate.

Types of Aquarium Substrate

• Aquatic Plant Substrate
• River Sand
• Fine Gravel
• Medium Gravel
• Colored Gravel
• Coarse Gravel
• Small Stones

The Ideal Goldfish Gravel Substrate

By nature, goldfish are scavengers and will feed off the bottom of a goldfish tank. A goldfish that is searching for food will often poke around in the substrate by moving around the pieces of substrate. If the substrate pieces are small and round enough, the goldfish might pick it up in its mouth and then spit it back out again. Goldfish do a good job of removing excess food off the top layer of substrate. This goldfish behavior eliminates aquatic plant substrate, river sand and small stones as an option, Goldfish will kick up sand and plant substrates when they dig at the tank bottom. This digging can cloudy the tank water and clog the filter and filter media. The small stones are too large for the goldfish to move around, not allowing them to eat the food that might be trapped between the stones.

The best goldfish aquarium substrate is a medium to small size rounded gravel. This gravel should be inert a doesn’t leach chemicals or colored dyes into the goldfish tank water. It’s easy to avoid using an aquarium substrate that leaches if the packaging clearly states ‘for use in aquariums’. It can be risky to use gravel, sand or stones from natural sources since it can leach pollutants or calcium which can throw off the pH in the goldfish tank water. Always rinse new gravel to remove dust before placing it in a goldfish aquarium.

Aquarium Plant Substrates Planting for Freshwater Aquarium Plants

The term 'substrate' refers to the planting medium used on the bottom of an aquarium. Similar to soil in a garden, substrates are needed by plants in order for them to root, obtain nutrients, and propagate.Keeping, maintaining, and ultimately propagating your aquarium plants is truly a joy, and it starts with a good substrate.

In natural environments, the substrate is typically slightly warmer than the water. It is also full of nutrients and dense. These things help the plants to root better, they receive better nutrition, and the warmer root conditions help in the growth of the plants. It is important to determine which soil is best for plant growth in the

In the aquarium, maintaining the substrate once it is set is usually fairly simple. Not much is needed. This is due to the normal activity of the aquarium. The fish and plants produce and release enough organic products, that then collect in the substrate, and in turn help the plants grow.
Once you've determined what type or types of plants you wish to keep, you can then determine which soil is best for plant growth in your planted aquarium.

• For choosing the best types of plants for your aquascape, see:

Selecting Aquarium Plants Aquarium Design and Types of Aquatic Plants

Pet Supply Comparison Shopping

Choosing a Substrate: There are several things to take into consideration when choosing your planting medium. Which types of substrates to use are determined by:

• First, the needs of the plants.
• Then the type of aquarium equipment you will be using.
• And finally the overall aquarium design you are looking to achieve.

Determining what type of substrate to use is extremely important for the plants. For healthy aquatic plants, the substrate provides nutrients for normal plant growth development and plant propagation. Several substrates available in most stores include: common pea gravel, aquarium gravel, sand, nutrient-rich and soil-based substrates, clay substrates, and quartz gravel (lime-free gravel). Often, different substrates can be mixed to obtain an optimum environment for your particular types of plants.

Substrate Considerations: There are different points to consider with each type of substrate such as the size of the particles and the depth of each substrate level.

• Size of the substrate: Usually, you don't want substrates that have large particle size because it allows more water to pass through and also acts as a debris trap. Particle sizes should be approximately 0.04 to 0.12 inches in diameter.

• Depth of the substrate: The depth of the substrate should be considered. How deep it is mostly depends on the type of plants present. Plants with longer roots need deeper substrates than plants with shorter roots. Usually a good rule of thumb is to have a substrate depth of between 2 and 4 inches.
• Mineral and Organic Content: Another factor is the mineral and organic contents of the soil. Much of this is often provided by the aquarium water and the other organisms living in the aquarium, but nutrient-rich substrates are available if needed.

Substrate Layers:
The four main substrates layers are: base substrates, rooting substrates, nutrient-rich substrates, and top level substrates.

Base substrates: A base substrate is usually sand. Base substrates aren't usually necessary, except in the case of heating cables present on the bottom. In nature the substrate is usually warmer than the water, and the use of heating cables can simulate this in the planted aquarium. If you are using a heating cable, you will want a layer of sand that is about 1" - 1 1/2" deep to cover the cable.

Rooting substrates: The rooting substrates are the main body of the substrate, designed to help anchor the plants. They do contain some nutrients, but are dense enough so that not too much water can be passed through. This layer is generally about 2" deep.
Quart gravel or lime-free substrates are ideal as rooting substrates. Some of these substrates include products called flourite, acrilite, or Onyx sand (a newer product from Seachem). Soil or potting soil is not often used because it is difficult to keep from clouding the water. It can be used and then covered with a heavier top level substrate, but you may still experience a muddying of the water.

Nutrient-rich substrates: Nutrient-rich substrates contain high levels of nutrients and only a thin layer of them should be used. This layer is used solely for the benefit of the plants and are designed to be used in limited quantities. Some nutrient-rich substrates include laterite and soil or potting soil. Laterite is too rich in nutrients for a rooting substrate and should be used sparingly. It can be added by rolling it up into little balls and placing the balls next to the plant roots.

Top level substrates: The top level substrate is the one that is visible to viewers and does not serve any other major function. This is a good place for coarser gravels and can be quite decorative, depending on the type of aquarium scene you are creating.

Substrate Types:

Common Pea Gravel: This gravel is very similar to what you would see in a natural environment. Used alone the normal common pea gravel sold in stores is generally not ideal for plants. Pea gravel is fairly loose thereby making it easy for water to flow through it, thus cooling the roots, oxygenating the gravel, and removing nutrients.
You can however use the smallest grade for a rooting medium though a lime-free quartz gravel is a better alternative. This gravel does work well as a top layer over finer substrates, or combined with other substrates to obtain a more realistic 'river' type display.

Quartz Gravel (lime-free substrate): Quartz gravel or a lime-free substrate is ideal as a rooting medium for plants. You can get it in a golden brown, black or white.

Colored (aquarium) Gravel: This is much like the common pea gravel and is also not ideal for plants. Again it is fairly loose and allows for easy water flow through it.
It can be mixed with other substrates for a visual variation, and will work well as a top layer over finer substrates. Light gray gravel is not a good choice however, as it causes distress in the fish due to how strongly the light is reflected off of it.

Calcius gravels: Crushed coral and other calcius sands or gravels that are offered for saltwater aquariums are high in calcium. They should be avoided unless you need a high pH and water hardness, few plants want this. These gravels work well in freshwater fish aquariums that are designed for African cichlids that need these high levels.

Sand: Sand is very fine, often even dusty. The 'silver sand' sold in aquarium shops is totally inert. Sand will compact and prevent any water movement resulting in a lack of oxygen.
Though sand can be used in a thin layer as a rooting medium for some plants, you will want to stir it occasionally to keep it from compacting. It is generally used as a base layer over heating cables.

Soil, Potting Soil: This substrate can be tricky to use as it can have too many nutrients and it may encourage algae growth. Also it is difficult to keep it from clouding the water.
Potting Soil is sometimes used as a thin nutrient-rich substrate layer and covered with a heavier top substrate. It has also been effectively used in permanent pots that are covered with a heavier top substrates. The potted method can be used in aquariums with undergravel filters.

Nutrient-rich Substrates: These are a long term source of nutrients that are vital to the plants. They should be used in limited quantities of either very thin layers between other substrate layers or as small pellets placed by the roots of plants. See the Nutrient rich layer described above for some of these products.

How to Use Gravel Vacuum Your Home Aqurium

Cleaning the aquarium is very important to keep your fish. One is cleaning the gravel aquarium. But know how to properly use aquarium gravel vacuum can make the experience less than homework.

A gravel vacuum is a tool that should be in every aquarist’s arsenal. Not only does it make water changes easier, but will save time on such routine maintenance. By removing excess waste and organic matter from the substrate, fish health will improve due to the resulting decrease in ammonia, nitrites, and nitrates. The efficiency also allows one to clean a larger area, and maneuver into caves and hiding spots where debris can accumulate.

Cleaning Freshwater Aquariums with Gravel or Rocky Substrate

Some gravel vacuums come with special attachments or heads that are designed to start the siphoning process by shaking the vacuum. Remove these attachments so that all that is remaining is the cylindrical siphon head attached to the hose.

Before starting, make sure that the hose end of the vacuum is placed securely in a bucket or similar container to catch the discarded aquarium water. Gravel vacuums are gravity fed, meaning that whatever container is being used must be placed below the aquarium. If it is placed at an equal or lower level, the vacuum may not be able to start or maintain the siphoning process.

Submerge the cylindrical head of the vacuum in the aquarium until it fills with water. When full, remove the head from the water. The water will begin to drain into the bucket and the cylinder will empty. Before it empties completely, re-submerge it in the aquarium. A pocket of air will form and flow through the vacuum. This trapped air passes through the hose and creates a siphoning effect that will continuously draw water through the vacuum until the head is removed from the water. Be cautious as to not let the bucket overflow.

Push the vacuum head into the gravel. The vacuum will draw gravel up into the cylindrical head, pulling with it debris, fish waste, and organic matter. If gravel is drawn too far into the cylinder or begins to be drawn into the hose, either tap the vacuum head to dispense the gravel, or remove the vacuum from the water and start over.

Sift through the gravel slowly, and try to cover as much area as possible. Make sure to take extra care in cleaning in caves and hiding spots, as these areas tend to accumulate the most waste. Be cautious as to not drain more than 30-40 percent of the aquarium water, which could result in the decimation of beneficial bacteria colonies.

Using a Gravel Vacuum in Saltwater and in Aquariums with Fine Sand

One of the major complaints regarding gravel vacuums is the difficulty in not sucking up sand into the vacuum hose. There a few simple tricks to prevent this from happening.

When vacuuming sand and other fine substrates, do not plunge the vacuum head directly into the substrate. Unlike gravel and larger rocks, waste doesn’t usually collect under the surface or between substrate particles. It usually settles on the top. Wave the vacuum head over the surface lightly in an attempt to collect the organic matter and waste that has settled on top. You can also lightly swirl the vacuum head to kick up any waste and immediately siphon it out.

If sand is drawn into the vacuum, pinch the hose in order to reduce the flow rate. When this happens, water will still be drawn through the vacuum, but the force of the suction will not be so great as to draw in the sand. Lightly tap the vacuum head to remove any sand, or remove the vacuum from the water and start over. This technique will also work in saltwater aquariums with living sand or crushed coral.

Cleaning Very Small or Delicate Aquariums with an Aquarium Vacuum

Some aquariums are just too small or oddly shaped to clean with a gravel vacuum. Also, there may be situations in which the water cannot be disturbed, such as breeding tanks with bubble nests or delicate planted aquaria. To combat this, remove the entire vacuum head so that all that is remaining is the hose. Dip a length of the hose in the water and allow it to fill. Remove the hose from the water until it begins to drain. Before the water empties from the hose, place a thumb or finger over the hole to block the water flow. Now place the hose tip back in the water and cease blocking the flow. A siphon effect will be created, and now the hose alone will act as a very small gravel vacuum, allowing the aquarist to clean and navigate in very small spaces without creating much disturbance.

A gravel vacuum is an essential tool for any home aquarist, and regular aquarium cleaning and water changes will always help lead one to success with healthy, happy fish.

Simple Steps to Buy Aquarium Gravel

Aquarium gravel is very important for your aquarium. Color and type of aquarium gravel you not only highlights your fish in your own unique style, but also gravel harbor beneficial bacteria that your aquarium. Type of gravel you choose depends on the type of fish and aquarium species you have.

Difficulty: Easy
Instructions

Step 1
Pick common aquarium gravel for fish-only aquariums. Use fine gravel if you have bottom feeders in the tank. Sand is also appropriate to use in these tanks.

Step 2
Provide an environment for marine and reef wildlife in your aquarium with aragonite and crushed coral. In this kind of aquarium, it's important to have gravel with calcium and magnesium to help balance the pH level.

Step 3
Grow plants in your aquarium with two layers of gravel. The bottom layer should consist of vermiculite and laterite. These types of gravel actually store water and nutrients for your plants. A top layer of regular gravel or sand will prevent your plants' nutrients from washing out.

Step 4
Consider your personal style. Within the accepted guidelines of appropriate gravel, there are numerous options to pick and choose colors to match your style. Pick something that you can stick with because it takes a lot of effort to change your gravel once you have an established aquarium.

Tips & Warnings
Some popular types of gravel may be aesthetically pleasing, but their impurities make them inappropriate for use in your aquarium. Sea sand, painted gravel and glass pebbles can all have a detrimental impact on your aquarium.
Deep layers of gravel can pose a significant danger to your fish. Food particles can sink into a less oxygenated area. Over time, this can produce a rotten egg smell that can kill your fish.

Aquarium Gravel Cleaning

Did you know your aquarium gravel you've just bought to put in the aquarium have been in the wash first? Don't worry, it only takes a few simple steps.
Difficulty: Easy
Time Required: 30 minutes
Here's How:

1. Purchase enough gravel to cover the aquarium bottom approximately three inches deep.
2. If you don't already have one, purchase a 5 gallon bucket and label it for aquarium use only. Aquarium buckets should never have soap in them.
3. Place a large clean sieve, at least 6 inches across, over the bucket. Fill the sieve half full of gravel.
4. Pour water over the gravel in the sieve, while gently shaking it. Rinsing the gravel over the bucket rather than over a drain, allows gravel that slips through the sieve to be caught instead of going down the drain. Continue pouring water over the gravel until the water runs clear. Several washings are usually required.
5. Once the water runs clear, the gravel is ready to be used. It may be placed directly into the tank or in a clean bucket or container.
6. Repeat steps three through five until you have washed enough gravel to fill the aquarium three inches deep.

Tips:

1. A rule of thumb for the amount of gravel to use is one pound of gravel per each gallon of water.
2. Old buckets may be used if they are thoroughly cleaned with bleach, rinsed well, and allowed to air dry.

What You Need:

• 6" or larger sieve
• 5 gallon bucket